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Cheese 5 min read

Why some cheeses have holes: eyes, fermentation and defects

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Cheese holes look like a visual detail, but they tell a technological story. In Swiss-type cheeses, so-called eyes can form in a controlled way during ripening as microorganisms produce carbon dioxide. In other cheeses, small openings may simply come from the way curd particles fused, while some irregular cavities can signal defects. Understanding the difference avoids two common mistakes: assuming every hole is desirable or treating every opening as a fault.

Quick summary

Technical termRegular holes in certain styles are called eyes.
Common originGas, especially CO₂, produced during specific fermentations.
Not all are the sameMechanical openings can result from incomplete curd fusion.
DefectsShape, distribution, size and timing can reveal unwanted fermentation.

What cheese “eyes” actually are

In cheese technology, eyes are internal cavities characteristic of certain styles. Where they are part of the identity, their size, number and distribution are controlled rather than random. Emmental is the best-known example.

The cheese body must also be elastic enough for gas to accumulate and expand a cavity without simply cracking the paste. Eye formation therefore depends on microbiology, texture, moisture, temperature and composition together.

The role of propionic fermentation

In Swiss-type cheeses, propionic acid bacteria metabolise lactate and produce carbon dioxide among other compounds. CO₂ first dissolves in the cheese mass and later forms bubbles around suitable nuclei during warm ripening.

Modern research has shown that tiny particles can act as nucleation sites, helping explain why milk treatment, microfiltration and processing conditions can dramatically change the number and size of eyes.

Mechanical openings without gas fermentation

Not every hole comes from gas. When curd particles are moulded and pressed, small gaps can remain where particles have not fully fused. These openings are often irregular and mechanical in origin.

Queso de Burgos PGI is a useful example: its specification allows small cavities caused by incomplete curd fusion and explicitly distinguishes them from gas-formed eyes. A photograph of a cut surface alone cannot reveal the full mechanism.

When holes can be defects

In a cheese intended to have a closed paste, large cavities, cracks or many unexpected eyes can point to unwanted fermentation or process problems. Even in an eye-forming cheese, the wrong size, shape or distribution can be a defect.

Assessment must therefore be style-specific. What is desirable in Emmental could be unacceptable in Manchego. There is no universal rule that more holes mean better fermentation or higher quality.

What controls eye size and distribution

Gas production is only one factor. Paste elasticity, moisture, calcium, pH, ripening temperature and gas diffusion also matter. If the body is too brittle, it may crack instead of forming round eyes; if gas escapes too easily, eyes may remain small or absent.

Starter cultures, curd cooking and ripening conditions are designed together to produce the expected pattern. Eye geometry is a result of the whole cheesemaking system.

How to read holes when buying or tasting

First identify the cheese style. If eyes belong to its standard, judge whether they look coherent with that style. If the paste should be compact, large cavities deserve a different interpretation. Then consider aroma, texture, rind and overall condition; one hole cannot decide quality by itself.

Eyes affect mouthfeel because they interrupt the paste structure, but they should not be used as a shortcut for age, intensity or craftsmanship.

Eyes can help identify a style

Some cheese specifications explicitly describe the presence, absence or type of eyes, making internal structure a controlled identity feature just like rind, size or minimum age.

Looking at the paste can therefore teach a great deal: large round eyes, small pores, mechanical openings or a completely closed body point to different processes. Observation is useful when combined with producer information rather than used without context.

Holes, safety and spoilage are different questions

Expected eyes are not evidence that cheese is “over-fermenting” in your refrigerator. They formed during controlled manufacture and ripening before sale. Unexpected package swelling, new gas formation or structural change accompanied by abnormal odours is a different situation.

Internal appearance should be interpreted together with date, packaging and cheese style. This prevents “fermentation” from becoming a vague explanation for every change after purchase.

Related questions

Do holes mean the cheese has more flavour?

Not necessarily. Eye-forming fermentation can contribute flavour compounds, but flavour depends on many other processes.

Can cheese have holes without producing gas?

Yes. Mechanical openings can remain where curd particles did not fuse completely.

Is cheese without eyes poorly fermented?

No. Many styles are intentionally made with a closed, compact paste.

Related guides

Bottom line

Holes are not decoration; they are clues about fermentation, structure and process. Read them in the context of the cheese style and distinguish fermentative eyes, mechanical openings and defects.

Sources and references

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